Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Finally Here and Finally Writing

I have been in Ghana for a little over a week now, and although I have been writing in my personal journal almost every day, I haven't shared anything on here.

I arrived in Accra, the capital, where our orientation took place at a nice hotel. After a couple days of lectures on things we already (were supposed to) read in the program handbook, we ventured out into the city in small groups, accompanied by U-PALs (Ghanaian students who show international students around and are somewhat responsible for them). Accra is pretty intimidating, busy, kind of smelly, and a lot to take in all at once. We walked around, noticing some important buidings, but more just getting a feel for the city.

Tuesday August 11, we moved into our dorms in Legon at the University campus. I am in the International Hostel, but some others are in regular housing or in homestays. Rooms are very nice, shared with one other person. Most of us are in rooms with others on our programs, but others are sharing with people from UCs, other internationals, or Ghanaians. Generally speaking, the dorms are great. However, running water has been less than reliable, and the kitchens we have available are really just rooms with counters and a hotplate.
The campus is huge, beautiful, and getting easier to navigate. When we leave the gates, there is a tro-tro (unofficial mini-bus taxis that get crammed with people) station, where we can fight our way to catch a ride to Accra, the beach, the mall, or other places around the area.

During our first few days here, we had more orientation and guest lectures about Ghanaian politics, history, etc. Then, registration was completely backwards, with students running around for 3 days to each department building to see what courses are offered, paying dues, but not knowing when classes will be. We were constantly told that the times would be up later that day, or by Friday at the latest, but they weren't. The first day of instruction was supposed to be Monday and we were not to miss the first class, so again we circled campus, figuring out where to go. Nothing was posted for my classes, and for those whose classes were that day, no teachers showed up. Tuesday afternoon, I finally found out that times worked out for the classes I wanted, and so I will be taking:
Sociolinguistics
Children's Literature
African Drumming
Sociological Foundations for Development Studies
Introduction to Twi Language
I am also doing an internship at a bilingual school as part of the Development Studies Track.

Food here is very good, spicy, cheap, but not much variation. I eat a lot of jollof rice (spicy fried rice), beans, fried plantains (kelewele), cole slaw, grilled chicken, and egg sandwiches. Right next to the International Hostel is a large outdoor market with many little stands that sell fresh fruit that the sellers cut into little pieces, and all of the other foods mentioned. I can usually eat for less than 2 cedi per meal, and there are 1.45 cedi to the dollar. I went in with some friends in my dorm, so we now have a pot, plates, and spaghetti that we can make for ourselves. I also have bread, crackers, and ground nut paste (like peanut butter) in my room. I definitely never go hungry, but it is a lot of starch. There is more variety in Accra, but on campus it is pretty limited.

I have gotten pretty used to being called obroni, especially by kids. It translates to white person, but isn't really an insult. It is just fact.

I just had my first Twi class yesterday, and I am enjoying it more than most because of my Lingusitics interest and background. It will be good to be able to communicate with locals in their own language, even if just a little bit. They will appreciate the effort. I just finished my first Development Studies class, and it will be very hard, but interesting. We are going to be reading a lot, and comparing what we learn in class to what we experience in our various internships at schools, afterschool programs, hospitals, orphanages, NGOs, AIDS clinics, women's right organizations, refugee camps, autism clinics, etc. It is a small group of people (much smaller than the regular University classes, which can be as big as 700) all on my CIEE program, but from colleges all over the US.

I have been spending almost all of my time with four people in the international hostel, Annie, Lissy, Erin, and Ezra. We are all Development Studies and we seem to work well as a group. The three girls are from Tulane and Ezra goes to BU. I made other friends during orientation, but unfortunately the homestays tend to socialize with themselves and same thing with people on campus. Homsetays are in East Legon, and range from walking distance to a 2 hour tro-tro ride away. They also range from mansions with pools to unfinished houses without running water. I am glad I chose to be on campus. I am hoping that once people have their class schedules set, I will be able to see the homestays during the day when they are on campus and have breaks.

This post was pretty dry and more just logisitcs, but I still don't feel that much has happened. I am feeling more settled and am glad that classes are starting, and I am happy with my group of friends. As the internship starts in the beginning of September, and as I go into Accra more, I will get more of a sense of life here, because people on campus tend to be pretty well off and it is kind of sheltered. Now that I have access to free (and pretty fast) internet at the AYA center, where I have Development Studies and Twi, I will be able to post more as things progress.

Love to all at home,
Mara